5 top functional ingredient launches of 2016

By Belinda Carli, Director, Institute of Personal Care Science

29-Nov-2016 - Last updated on 29-Nov-2016 at 11:17 GMT

Related tags Skin Emulsion

2016 was a year that saw an increased focus on fast-to-market formulations, continued growth of the natural sector and a huge explosion in interest in the sensory aspects of a formulation. So… what functional ingredients have caught formulators attention to meet these needs?

This article will review my top 5 functional ingredient picks from the many amazing ingredients launched throughout the year. To win a spot on this list, the material needed to be new for 2016 and meet the needs of key formulation trends of the year.

#1 Functional Ingredient of 2016: KoboGel D5 and KoboGel Aqua by Kobo Products Inc

The KoboGel product range consists of predispersed pigments (30-35% loading) in either a hydrophilic gel or elastomer gel (with volatile silicone). Available in light, medium and dark shades, there are several features that make the KoboGel ranges one of the best functional ingredient launches of 2016:

Pre-dispersed colour in sensorially pleasing gel bases to suit either water or silicone based products.
Provide easy addition of reproducible colour for brands/manufacturers wanting to work with colour even if they haven’t had previous colour matching experience – using various combinations of the light, medium or dark KoboGel materials will enable even the most basic manufacturing facility to achieve the required skin tone without individual iron oxide blending.
Their use results in less batch-to-batch and scale-up colour variation.
Provide optical enhancement to deliver a ‘soft focus’ effect on the skin.

These materials meet the ‘fast-to-market’ formulation concept for colour cosmetics with an incredible sensory feel.

#2 Functional Ingredient of 2016: Emogreen by Seppic

These non-polar COSMOS approved alkanes are fully biodegradable, high purity, stable and crystal clear with fully traceable and non-GMO origin. What makes these emollients such a great launch for 2016 is they provide a unique refreshing and gliding sensation, very silicone like, but totally green and biodegradable. They can be used in just about any product requiring natural lipids as silicone replacements or simply to provide a refreshing and gliding skin sensation with a soft after feel. Stable to extreme pH and oxidation and ideal for pigment wetting, the applications are endless! We are continuing to see a rise in demand for COSMOS/truly natural ‘silicone’ replacements and the Emogreen range provides an economical and very stable solution.

These materials provide an incredible sensory feel while being of truly natural origin.

#3 Functional Ingredient of 2016: TegoSolve 55 by Evonik

This PEG-free solubiliser is not only readily biodegradable and based on renewable raw materials, it is also suitable for use in natural cosmetics. It has shown to be effective with up to 50% less solubiliser needing to be used for effective solubilisation of essential oils (and fragrances). Another key benefit is that it does not cause high foaming during processing or application, making it ideal for use in water based products and wet wipes to avoid any ‘micro-foaming’. With low addition rates needed for stable formulation results, it also boosts moisturisation of the skin for true multi-functional benefits.

This material enables good sensory and stability results using a naturally derived material.

#4 Functional Ingredient of 2016: Silube 316 by SilTech

High water phase invert emulsions have become one of the hottest formulation trends of 2016 because of their ability to provide W/O or W/Si creations with a very high water content (>70%). The result is a ‘quick break’ skin feel on first application with a cascading, hydrating after feel that is moisture protective yet totally non-greasy. Silube 316 is a unique PEG/PPG and ethoxylate free low HLB emulsifier that enables the creation of these emulsions. In addition, it can also be used to stabilise these bases with colour and sunscreen additives in both hot and cold process without the need for additional co-emulsifiers. Silube 316 also has a delightfully light skin feel to boost sensory aspects of a formulation while also being compatible with electrolytes and various active ingredients.

This material enables simple yet elegant W/O or W/Si emulsion creation to meet the ‘fast-to-market’ formulation concept for various emulsion and colour cosmetic products with a pleasing sensory feel.

#5 Functional Ingredient of 2016: C145 by Oleon

This multi-material product provides a single step multiple emulsion approach – enabling formulators to stabilise and create various types of emulsions fast and reliably with an emulsifying blend. No need to use multiple emulsifiers or even rely heavily on sensory agents – this material has it all – a blend of emulsifiers specifically combined to create a multiple emulsion in one step as well as provide a cascading sensory experience for the consumer. It also provides moisture protective benefits and can be used in various skin care emulsions as well as sunscreens and colour cosmetics.

This material meets fast-to-market formulation principles as well as multiple applications and a pleasing sensory feel with almost all naturally derived materials.

By Belinda Carli, Director of Institute of Personal Care Science, the world’s leading on-line educational provider for the personal care industry and Official Technical Advisor to the in-cosmetics Group globally.